10 Days in Iran – Tiles, Tales, and a Thousand Smiles

Iran wasn’t exactly on everyone’s must-visit list. But for us, it had been calling for a long time — a land of intricate tiles, thousand-year-old stories, and smiles warmer than the desert sun. Last autumn, we finally made it.

Iran, historically known as Persia, is truly one of the cradles of civilization. Home to one of the world’s oldest continuous cultures, its history stretches back over 2,500 years. From the mighty Achaemenid Empire to the poetic dynasties of Shiraz and Isfahan, it has long stood at the crossroads of art, science, and trade. This timeless heritage is woven into every archway, bazaar, and garden we visited.

We took a late-night Pegasus flight from Ankara, Türkiye, and arrived in Tehran around 3 AM. Unfortunately, just as we began our descent into Tehran, Joona’s food poisoning kicked in hard. After we landed, things quickly spiraled.

The Visa Process (and Joona’s Rough Start)

Before even stepping into the country, we were pleasantly surprised by how smooth the visa process was. We applied through TAP Persia, and their service was genuinely amazing. Right after the application, we got the visa invitation letter. At 4 AM, despite Joona vomiting nonstop in the arrivals hall, the visa process was seamless: we showed our visa invitation letter, paid the $100 fee, and got through passport control without any hassle.

We had pre-booked a driver through our hostel, and it turned out to be a lifesaver. He drove us from the airport directly to our hostel in the city, where we had a private room. Unfortunately, the shared bathroom situation was far from ideal — Joona was getting sick every 15 minutes and had to run to the other end of the hallway the whole rest of the night.

Days 1–3: Tehran – Chaos, Kindness, and Recovery

The first 24 hours were tough. Within hours of arriving, we found ourselves in a local Tehran hospital. It was overwhelming: a completely new country, Arabic script we couldn’t read, and no one around us spoke English. We felt utterly helpless and lost. The beds were dirty, the service painfully slow, and the two doctors we met insisted Joona had “COVID-21” (not a typo), despite very obvious food poisoning symptoms. Emilia ended up walking to a nearby pharmacy alone to buy medicine, which the nurses finally gave him. Still, the experience had its upside: the entire hospital visit cost only about 10 euros (5 million rials).

Despite the rocky beginning, Tehran grew on us. We stayed at Heritage Hostel, whose staff were incredibly kind and helpful. They had just opened a new facility nearby — modern, high quality, and full of other travellers. It even included free breakfast and a very welcoming vibe.

After Joona’s food poisoning had calmed down a bit, we finally had the energy to go explore the city. On our third day, we went to check out the buzzing Grand Bazaar and the stunning Golestan Palace. We were mesmerized by the beauty of the architecture — tiled walls, mirrored ceilings, and courtyards filled with history. It was our first real touch of local life in Tehran, and the city slowly started revealing its magic to us.

During our first days exploring the city, we met Mariyam, a local we got chatting with at a stylish downtown cafe. We instantly clicked. She showed us around Tehran, and we even shared a dinner together (though Joona still couldn’t eat much). Her warmth and open heart made us feel truly welcome. Later, she introduced us to her friend Mohammed, who we met later in Isfahan.

A fun and super useful tool during our time in Tehran (and elsewhere) was Snapp, a local ride-hailing app similar to Uber. The rides were incredibly cheap, and it saved us a lot of time and confusion when getting around the cities.

One challenge, however, was staying connected. The Iranian government blocks most of the internet — including social media and common websites — so we had to download several VPNs in advance to access basic online services. It made us appreciate free and open internet more than ever before.

Days 4–5: Isfahan – The City of Half the World, and Our Favorite Stop

Known for its stunning Islamic architecture, lush gardens, and iconic blue domes, Isfahan has long been considered one of the jewels of Iran. Nicknamed “Nesf-e-Jahan” (Half the World), the city is a living canvas of Persian artistry and grandeur. From majestic bridges to ancient bazaars, Isfahan captured our hearts more than any other place on this trip.

We travelled to Isfahan by VIP bus — one of the two bus classes in Iran. VIP buses cost slightly more than the standard ones but offer great comfort: lots of legroom, quiet ambiance, and smooth rides (sometimes a bit scary though). Perfect for budget travellers who still appreciate some comfort.

When we arrived late in the evening, we had to take a local metro to the city center to meet Masood. Despite the hour, the atmosphere felt incredibly safe. Locals were friendly, the metro was clean, and we felt completely at ease.

Masood, a local guide I had contacted before the trip, welcomed us to his beautiful city. His warmth was immediate.

The next morning, we met up with Mohammed — the friend of Mariyam from Tehran. He spent nearly the whole day with us, guiding us around the city. We explored the famous Khaju Bridge, wandered the endless stalls of the bazaar, and visited the vibrant Armenian quarter. Not to forget the absolute highlight of the city – Naqs-e Jahan square. We also shared a traditional Persian lunch of Isfahani Biryani, which was incredibly rich and flavorful. Read more of the dish here: https://www.tasteatlas.com/biryani-isfahan

Later that afternoon, Masood took over the guiding duties. He showed us even more of the city’s wonders, diving into the layered history behind every tile and minaret. We ended the day with a delicious dinner together at a cozy spot inside the bazaar.

Photography-wise, Isfahan was breathtaking. The Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, with its serene symmetry and turquoise dome, was straight out of a dream. Emilia even bought a real Persian carpet in the Armenian quarter, which was delivered to our home in Rovaniemi just in time for Christmas.

Masood’s hospitality, paired with connecting with Mohammed, made Isfahan unforgettable.

Days 6–7: Shiraz – Color, Poetry, and Persepolis

The southern city of Shiraz is known as the cultural capital of Iran — the city of poets, roses, and nightingales. It’s a place where art, gardens, and history come together in a symphony of color and emotion.

We took another VIP night bus to Shiraz. Sounds ideal, right? Not quite. The radio and interior lights stayed on the entire night, so Joona didn’t sleep a minute. Exhausted, we arrived in Shiraz, but the city quickly revived us.

We stayed at a beautiful traditional Persian guesthouse nestled in the historic city center. The courtyard, carved woodwork, and peaceful vibe made it feel like a step back in time.

We visited the famous Nasir al-Mulk Mosque (a.k.a. the Pink Mosque) just as the morning light poured in through its stained glass windows. The entire room exploded in color. It was one of the most photogenic moments of the whole trip — a dream for any photographer.

Later, we visited the tomb of Hafez, surrounded by young Iranians reciting poetry by heart. There’s something deeply spiritual about how connected people are to their cultural heritage.

One day, we took a taxi to the nearby ruins of Persepolis, the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire built over 2,500 years ago by Darius the Great. Walking among the towering stone columns and reliefs was awe-inspiring — a surreal step back in time. To be totally honest though, one of our main motivations for visiting was the name: in Finnish, Persepolis could be translated as “City of Ass”, which made us laugh a bit more than it should have.

We also met some incredibly kind locals in Shiraz, who made us feel at home despite our short stay. After a couple of inspiring days, we booked a domestic flight back to Tehran. Tickets cost around 40 euros each, and the service on this 45-minute flight was honestly better than many European airlines. Joona was also especially excited about flying on an old Iranian Boeing 737-200 — a rare aviation treat.

Days 8–10: Back to Tehran – Reflections and Goodbyes

Originally, we planned to visit the desert city of Yazd, but we simply ran out of time after Joona’s early illness. Instead, we returned to Tehran, where we caught up again with Mariyam.

On our final full day, we headed to Darband Valley for a small hike and fresh mountain air — a perfect escape from the city’s noise. That evening, we had a farewell dinner with Mariyam and her daughter, a truly heartwarming way to wrap up our visit.

Later that night, we flew back to Ankara and continued our journey to Jordan — but part of our hearts stayed behind.

Final Thoughts

Iran left us speechless. The architecture, history, colors, and light make it a photographer’s dream. But what truly made our trip unforgettable were the people: Mariyam, Masood, Mohammed, and every stranger who stopped us to say “Welcome to Iran.”

We never once felt unsafe. On the contrary, we felt cared for, respected, and embraced. Even strangers on the street would offer help, stop to chat, or invite us for tea. They looked after us in ways we didn’t expect, and their kindness left a deep mark on us. Despite media stereotypes, we felt incredibly safe — something even Lonely Planet highlights.

We left with a memory card full of images and a heart full of warmth. Yazd an many other cities still waits for us, and so do many stories yet to be written. Iran has to be explored with a lot of time. 10 days was way too short but we got a good taster of how wonderful the country is.

If you’re thinking about Iran: go. It’s one of the most stunning and misunderstood places we’ve ever seen — and one we can’t wait to return to.

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